Mark Twain was Right, a day in Lucerne

I'd been told I should really go to Lucerne before I left Switzerland, so today I bought a train ticket and took the short trip from Basel to Lucerne. It was supposed to be a beautiful day, 16C and sunny, but when I got there at 11:00 Lucerne was shrouded in fog. But fog is just what you need when you go to visit the Dying Lion monument. Mark Twain said it was the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world. I sat there for a long time looking at it, in the almost total silence of that place. I finally had to shake it off and head back to the old town and as I approached the lake, the sun burned through the clouds, the water sparkeled, the swans swam in graceful circles and the world, or at least Lucerne seemed to come to life again.